Peru Piura 2020 Organic/FT

Origin: Peru
Region:  Norandino
Type: National and local white varieties
Certifications:  Organic, Fair Trade
Year: 2020

The aroma starts off with sweet berry blossoms and toasted Graham crackers

The flavor is immediately bright and tangy, with a pretty criollo typical subdued chocolate flavor.  It has a nice amount of natural sweetness and that offsets the cranberry and pomegranate acidity quite nicely.  Bitterness and astringency are present but in good balance to the delicate profile.  There is a little light earthiness in the finish along with a hint of fresh roasted peanut butter.  There is a touch of at first taste might be classified as sour but the more I tasted it, the more I came to realize it was the sour of the aforementioned cranberry and nothing like vinegar.  One could also call it a twist of lime.

The preparation is perfect on this lot. Very even and no debris to speak of.

This is one of the fruitiest native cacao in the world. It’s grown near a desert thanks to the Andean waterways that keep cacao trees blooming on hot days and the dedication of small, organized farmers

Cacao farmers in the villages of La Pareja, Loma Larga and Palmas have to make the most of their small piece of land, cultivating rare white cacao among mango, citrus and banana.

Roasting something that is pretty light seems to always give people trouble.  The thought (except it is wrong) is that light tasting beans should be roasted lightly.  In short, I couldn't disagree more.  It is light because it is all it has to give, not because it needs light treatment.  If you roast a bean like this too lightly or gently, you are apt to simply not develop the flavor that is there.  And the same goes for floral notes.  Don't be concerned about the floral notes going away in the roast.  Floral notes don't act that way.  So what should you do?  Well, you should roast it as aggressively as you can, with this one caveat.  Don't damage the bean.  Roast it with a sure, strong hand, but keep an nose out for sharp aromas (initial acidity of vinegar aside) and only dial back the power if you not those sharp flavors.  So, yes, you should treat this a little more gentle but that is not the same as roasting it gently.  Get the difference?

The roast profile for my evaluation was 12.5/2.75/3;45 @ 256 F.  The EOR was just a little lower than some taking into account its moderate fruit and lower chocolate levels.  Also, I kept the EOR and ramps a little lower so that peanut does not go bitter.

If you are using a Behmor, P1 for 19-20 minutes with 2 lb will be just fine.  Go by the aroma.  When it turns sharper near the end of the count down, you are done.  If it isn't there yet, add a bit more time waiting for the turn of aroma.