Region: Bahia, Ilheus
Varietal: TSH 1188, Catongo, Para-Parazinho, PH16
The aroma starts off with a very classic dark chocolate with a touch of dry cherry. There is a distinct citrus pith and cured tobacco. The chocolate level is moderate and has a slight iron rich tang that comes along. It is a moderate Brazil nut flavor (no relation to the country) and hints of dried prune in the finish. The whole profile holds together due to a nice binding sweetness.
Make sure you check out roasting recommendations on this bean. The are off the charts odd and probably NOT a good bean for a beginner if you are hoping to hit a home run on the first swing.
For once I am going to make a chocolate style recommendation that I rarely ever do. I would say steer away from really dark chocolates (80% and above) unless you have a particular appreciation of astringent flavors. It does nice in 55-70% chocolates and really rather punches through in milk chocolates.
Finally, I only have a small amount of this so if you want to try it or compare it to the Catongo from the same farm you should get on it quickly. I can't see it lasting any time at all.
Last year I visited Brazil for the 1st annual Bean to Bar festival in Sao Paulo Brazil. While there I had the honor to meet so many amazing people. Chocolate makers, growers and farmers. One such person was Pedro Neto of Lajedo do Ouro. He has an incredibly beautiful farm located in the northwest corner of Brazil in the Ihious Region of Bahia. He was also gracious enough to host me for the night during our tours. His farm very organized and well kept with varietals as segregated as possible. This bean is one just varietal that they take care to keep separate and out of their farm blend due to its really unique nature.
The beans are fermented in traditional boxes and turned on a schedule dictated by how the temperatures rise and fall. They are sun dried of open patios with huge roofs on rollers that can be quickly put in place should rain come in.
This beans seems to break a couple of the standard protocols I use for roasting and I almost didn't offer the beans because I could not find a way to roast it that was not very astringent. I fell accidentally into the method and give it to you here. It isn't one I would recommend for any general application. It is very specific to this bean. In short it is a long but hot roast.
On the Behmor it is really simply to do. You roast it twice without letting it cool down. I accidentally was not present when the 'be present' timer went off at 4:30 minutes left and the beans started cooling. I took the drum out (with gloves) without letting the beans cool. I then let the roaster complete it's cooling cycle and roasted the beans again until it faulted out (Err 7) again. The whole time was approximately 42 minutes long including the middle cooling cycle where the beans stayed warm. The final temperature of the beans was 295 F. Totally weird I know, but a happy little accident. Thanks Bob Ross.
The drum roasting profile I used trying to replicate the double roast on the Behmor is 12:30/15:30/42:00 @ 295 F. This is a strange profile in that it is a very long development phase and an incredibly long finishing phase. You all but stall the roast. It is barely moving at 2-3 F/min.